DAY 4: AINSA /THE MOUNTAIN LAKES ROUTE/ LOUDENVIELLE -BALNEA

The Cap de Long dam

This enormous dam is more than 100 metres high and forms one of the biggest reservoirs in the Pyrenees. Like a veritable fjord, it is surrounded by the cliffs of the Pic de Néouvielle. Forty kilometres of underground galleries carry water from the barrage to the Pragnères hydroelectric power station in the neighbouring Gavarnie valley. It took seven years (from 1946 to 1953) and more than 6,000 workers to construct this extraordinary structure.

On the road that goes down from the tunnel, after going through Aragnouet and just before you reach Fabian, follow the D929 to Cap-de-Long.

The Neouvielle National Reserve Turn round at the Cap-de-Long dam. Take the first left towards Orédon onto the highest mountain lakes road in the Pyrenees. This takes you to the Lac d’Orédon (1,849m), Lac d’Aumar (2,198m) and Lac d’Aubert (2,150m). You are on the edge of the Pyrenees National Park, at the heart of the Néouvielle National Nature Reserve. How many are there? Several dozen? A hundred? No one has ever been able to count the lakes in this nature reserve. Their green and turquoise blue waters are scattered across the countryside. A small wonderland that is definitely not to be missed.

The lakes circuit

string of lakes and pools amongst mountain pines, rhododendrons and granite rocks.

From the Lac d’Orédon car park (1856m) take the path that leads up to the left of the road that runs alongside the lake. The path goes through a pine wood before meeting the Col d’Aubert road at a bend (45 mins). Take the path to Les Laquettes on the left. The path goes through scrubland before it reaches the first of the Laquettes. A beautiful and astonishing landscape opens out before you with the Laquettes strung out like dabs of azure surrounded by cropped grass and mountain pines. A little paradise. At the end of the Laquettes, the path rises to the right to reach Lac d’Aubert (2,150m) and its surprising peninsula. To reach the next lake, follow a wide path towards the car park. And you’re there. Splendid. Lac d’Aumar (2,198m - 1½ hours) is laid out surrounded by close-cropped grass beneath the Pic de Néouvielle. After walking for 1½ hours you might decide to take the shuttle bus back to Lac d’Orédon. If you want to walk back, follow the path along the right bank of Lac d’Aumar until you get to the spillway and cross the footbridge. Carry straight on through the Passades d’Aumar pine forest towards Col d’Estoudou (2,260m). Just before the pass, turn right and go down through the forest to the mountain refuge, then on to the Orédon car park (3 hours 45 mins).

Takes: 3 h 45 mins • Climb : 300 metres • Level : easy • Start and finish : Orédon lake car park.

Col (or Hourquette) d'Aubert

Take the waymarked path (Sentier de la Hourquette d’Aubert) which goes around the north-eastern side of Lac d’Aubert. At an altitude of 2,498 metres, this pass offers stunning views of the greens and turquoise blues of the lakes and Laquettes surrounded by pine forests and grassy clearings. On the other side, you will also find a fantastic view of the Barèges valley.

Takes: 3h (round trip) • Climb: 350 metres • Level : medium • Start and finish: Aubert lake (accessible by shuttle bus from the Orédon lake parking).

The Col de Val Louron mountain pass

At the top the road passes through vast pastures, a favourite take-off point for paragliders and hangliders. Around Sailhan, before having passed the original marble fountain adorned with four water troughs, it is time to cross into the Louron Valley!

The premier spa centre in the French Pyrenees

Finally, you can slide into the beneficial waters of Balnéa. In front of you, the peaks and mountain passes rise to an altitude of 3000 metres, like a high wall designed to preserve the peacefulness of this secret valley. You can gaze at it whilst luxuriously immersed to your shoulders in the warm waters of Balnéa's outdoor pools. As night falls, the villages of the valley light up one by one like the bulbs on a string of fairy lights each reflected in the lake. You could stay there forever.

The Genos Loudenvielle lake

A pleasant walk along the banks of the Lac de Génos-Loudenvielle.

La boucle du lac :

A circular walk lasting at most an hour which is almost entirely on the level. But don’t forget to climb as far as the Guet de Génos and Loudenvielle towers to enjoy the view. There is a legend that there is an underground passageway that links the two.

Yellow waymarkings • Takes : 1 1/2 hours

Evening and night in Loudenvielle

The Hautes-Pyrenees holiday shop proposes you a small selection of very favorite accommodations in Loudenvielle and surroundings. For more choices, contact directly the Shop to 05 62 56 70 00.

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A great find

« Chez Roger », Bistrot de Pays at Loudenvielle

A veritable institution in this village! Open continuously since 1930, first run by ‘Lulu’ Rogé, then by Josette, her daughter. You will also meet grand-daughter Claire and great-grand-daughters Laura and Flavie. Holiday-makers and villagers, everyone meets here for a drink, to play the card game belote and to sing Pyrenean folksongs.

11 chemin de Clarabide – 65510 Loudenvielle.

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Worth the detour

• The village of Mont and its Roman chapel (classified as an historic monument)

Get a little higher by following the road over the Col de Peyresourde. Villages are spread out along the route. Each of them harbours an astonishing Roman chapel, a precious treasure with splendid frescos painted to thank God for the lucrative trade in leather and wool between this French valley and its Spanish neighbour after the discovery of the New World. Choose Mont, a delightful village with 20 inhabitants and an outstanding view. Its church is the only one to have an outdoor fresco representing the last judgement and which has valiantly resisted the ravages of time. The interior is also covered with wonderful paintings. An audio guide that explains everything is available for €2.

• The Col de Peyresourde 

The pass is wide and has an outstanding view. Take time to stop at the summit. And don’t hesitate to venture into the little wooden house for the inevitable refreshments. 1 crêpe: €0.50, 12 crêpes: €4.50 Go for 12! While he makes the crêpes, the owner will lend you his collection of Chinese wooden puzzles. On the other side of the pass is the Luchon valley.

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